Climbed at the Cleveland Rock Gym on both Saturday and Sunday. Strained the A2 pulley on my right pinkie Saturday. Taped it and was able to continue climbing, but held off from any remaining bouldering.
Having now researched finger injuries, I now see that I have strained the A2 pulley in both ring fingers in training prior to the Arnold in '12 (right hand) and '13 (left hand). Both have healed and do not hinder my performance currently. I am happy that this week is a deload, but know that I will require 6-8 weeks to feel back to pain free. Contrast baths, self-massage, taping and exercise adjustments will ensue.
Climbing wise; I'm starting to feel comfortable at the 5.10(indoor) level. Indoor and outdoor are still very different animals, but nice to see that I am improving and there will be some carryover (namely, I am finding stances that I can go hands free comfortably and rest/place gear).
Climbing endurance is also vastly improved. In the past we would climb 4-5 routes in an hour and be done. Now we climb 4-5 to warm-up and then 5-7 that test us (plus 4-5 boulder routes) and then 1-3 easier to cool down.
Having now researched finger injuries, I now see that I have strained the A2 pulley in both ring fingers in training prior to the Arnold in '12 (right hand) and '13 (left hand). Both have healed and do not hinder my performance currently. I am happy that this week is a deload, but know that I will require 6-8 weeks to feel back to pain free. Contrast baths, self-massage, taping and exercise adjustments will ensue.
Climbing wise; I'm starting to feel comfortable at the 5.10(indoor) level. Indoor and outdoor are still very different animals, but nice to see that I am improving and there will be some carryover (namely, I am finding stances that I can go hands free comfortably and rest/place gear).
Climbing endurance is also vastly improved. In the past we would climb 4-5 routes in an hour and be done. Now we climb 4-5 to warm-up and then 5-7 that test us (plus 4-5 boulder routes) and then 1-3 easier to cool down.
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