Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Sunday - June 7

Climbing at Whipps Ledges in Hinckley, Ohio

This was my first time at Whipps to climb.  Everything is top-rope due to the soft sandstone.

I started with 'Double-O' (5.7+), I was happy to onsight without beta from my belayer (a frequent Whipps climber, I got there before Justin and Katie and made friends).  Smooth and steady all the way.  I like finding the climb on my own and learning to read the rock/routes without help.

We then set-up a top-rope on 'Patagonia' (5.8+).  Again it went smoothly on my first go as I found all the holds and foot placement easily.  I'm really feeling balanced and in control on 5.8 and below, I hope this carries over when we head to Seneca in a few weeks.

Next I tried 'Snoopy' (5.10+), I was smooth up to the crux and then was stymied with pumped forearms.  I'm guessing the grip comp the day before hindered my hand strength-endurance but thats just an excuse.  I need to find the body position for smoother movement.  5.10 is my grade where work/projecting becomes evident.  I'm close, but don't have it dialed for smooth onsighting 10s just yet.

We then moved down the main wall and set up on 'You Break It, You Break It' (5.5).  Looking at it I saw 3 variations and we climbed them all for fun.  It was easy climbing but I was happy to be on rock moving.  Before this climb I did a long traverse of a low wall 180 degrees from this climb, it was probably 60' and I stayed on for the down and back which gave me another mild pump.

I must say that I am feeling the most stable and comfortable on the rock as I have ever been.  I feel that I am starting to climb the rock and not just muscle/claw my way up.  It's a very enjoyable experience.  The confidence is also helping my once very shaky legs/body fear of heights.


climber511 said...

I enjoyed your "crawling" across the top of Seneca Rocks your first trip. :)

Andrew Durniat said...

I'm noticing a trend of everyone 'enjoying' watching me struggle. It's fascinating to people. And I must saying humbling to me to have those very human experiences, I can't always be super-human, but I try.