Monday, May 18, 2015



Climbed Logtown
 - 'Footloose and Fingers Free' - 5.9 sport
    - I've lead this last year and it was a good warm-up.

 - 'Beam Me Up Scotty' - 5.9 sport
    - Never been on this before and was nice to take the first lead on it.  It felt very 'Seneca-esk', ledgy but decent holds after fishing around.

Only got these 2 routes in before the rain started.  We (Taylor and I) took a break and then came back and practiced 3-piece anchor building at the base.


Climbed Logtown
 - warmed up on 'Footloose' again and then went after some harder routes.  I started after 'Nick of Time' (5.10d).  Managed the first two bolts but could figure out the sloping overhang.  This was the high-point for everyone.

 - My 3rd route attempt was 'Nightmare's Right' (5.11a).  Reached the 1st bolt smoothly, but new the 2nd was thin and balancy; took one planned fall and then a committed fall before finally attaining the necessary balance/tension to safely clip the 2nd bolt.  Spent some time trying to find the remaining moves to the big ledge and shuts but was unsuccessful today.

 - Jeff first tackled 'Coordinate Covalent Bonding' (5.11b).  We stick clipped the first bolt.  The first moves are sloping campus moves on the arete which gas you.  Jeff got just above the 3rd bolt.  I top-roped to the 3rd and was one-two moves from the shuts (it got thin and I was tired from the previous battles)

 - we finished the day with 'Beach Party' (5.8).  Kyle took first lead (her first lead on this route).  It surprised us how much the other routes took out of us, Jeff and Taylor both flailed with frustration.  I was able to lead and clean successfully.

We rapped off trees to retrieve our gear from the other routes.

Overall a great day pushing outside our comfort zones and learning.  Fingers, toes and abs are feeling it.


climber511 said...

Nice climbing!

Andrew Durniat said...

It is amazing and nice what consistent climbing can do for our ability. Can't wait to get to Seneca to compare our 'new level' to past years.

climber511 said...

I remember fondly how quickly the gains came those first couple years. These days I struggle to just not go backwards any more quickly. the big difference is I climbed outdoors every weekend - now hardly at all. My fault of course.

Andrew Durniat said...

Climbing outdoors is the big one we're finding as well. Truly two different sports.