Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Saturday - May 23

Climbing at Logtown

Started with 'Footloose Fingers Free' (5.9) as a warm-up again.  Felt very smooth and confident.
Next, went over to 'Coordinate Covalent Bonding' (5.11b), I have been dreaming about these moves since last weekend.  We again stick-clipped the first bolt with an extended alpine draw.  The first moves are like sloping campus rungs next to an arete to heel hook for balance.  Very muscular to the first bolt and then you get a sloping 'ledge' to stand and shake out the pump.  The next 3 bolts utilize the arete and some face moves.  I believe I hung for rest afte clipping the 3rd bolt.  The 4th bolt was our previous high point, but today I was committed and had a better plan.  This time I stayed out closer to the arete rather than the face under the shuts.  I stood on the bolt while I fished around for the undercling I needed to keep myself into the wall.  One more crimpy hold and then the 'thank god' jug at the shuts.  Super excited about finishing my first 5.11 on lead, but need to clean it up and not stand/hangdog on a bolt.  Regardless, a good step forward.

We finished up on 'Beam Me Up Scotty' (5.9).  Last year these two 5.9 routes were our test pieces and now myself, Jeff and Taylor all use them to warm-up and cool-down.  Great to see the progression.  Kyle is close to fully leading 'Burrsitus' (5.6 trad), she got to the cruc last time but was gassed after being on the 5.9 and 5.11 routes beforehand.  

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